Shades of opinion

Dear readers,

I promised some while ago in my musings on summer clothing and accessories a word on sunglasses. As we are now into June, perhaps it is the time for a few thoughts which might be helpful.

My principal gripe is that, while people often put a great deal of effort into choosing their sunglasses, they very rarely (seem to) pause to consider whether the shades in question match the rest of their ensemble. Now, this seems prima facie to be absurd. One wouldn't carefully select a pair of shoes, for example, then assume that they would look dandy with a suit or with a polo shirt and a pair of shorts.

There is a school of thought that sunglasses of any kind simply do not go with formal clothes. To me, this is the placing of form far too far above function. Sunglasses are useful items, and to shun them on the grounds of aesthetics seems to be cutting off one's nose to spite one's face (after which it would be very difficult to wear sunglasses anyway). Care must be taken, of course, unless one cultivates the image of a Secret Service agent, but the feat is perfectly possible.

At this point I must make a declaration. I have a great loyalty to Ray Bans, and my taste in sunglasses is somewhat traditionalist. The Sybarite does not wear Killer Loops. So, rather that overreach myself, I will put before you my tastes from which you may, if you wish, extrapolate wider lessons.

One of the most iconic types of sunglasses is, of course, the aviator. It is of long standing, too, having been pioneered by the US Army Air Force before World War 2. If you are going to choose aviators (and there is no reason why not - I have a pair), you need go no further than Ray Ban, in my opinion. They did it first and they did it best. But perhaps one or two considerations. Make sure they fit your face shape. The slender of visage might do well to avoid them, for fear of looking top-heavy and bug-eyed. I also have a vague sense that they simply do not go with a suit. (If you have Navy whites, then that is a different affair, but then, if you do, you are either in the Navy or looking at the wrong sort of website.) With a blazer and chinos, I think they can look very well, so it is not an out-and-out matter of "Not with any kind of formal clothes".

Ray Ban's Wayfarers enjoyed their first heyday in the 1950s, before falling heavily out of fashion until revived by Hollywood in the 1980s (think The Blues Brothers or Risky Business). For myself, I am very fond of Wayfarers. I have a mild preference for tortoise shell over black, but either can look very elegant. I also think they are pretty much multi-purpose, as they will not look out of place with informal clothes for a back yard barbecue, but can also be worn with a suit without being incongruous. (Here preference might be given to tortoise shell, lest onlookers think you believe you actually are Jake or Elwood. Much will depend on the suit.)

A more obviously retro style, though one which my youth advisers tell me is enjoying a renaissance, is the Clubmaster. The frames (though without tinted lenses) were sported by Kevin Costner when he played Jim Garrison in Oliver Stone's (actually rather tedious and self-important) JFK. Here I must confess that I own two pairs, one in black and one in tortoise shell, and they are perhaps my favourite sunglasses. I think they are positively ideal for more formal wear, and set off a suit beautifully. I have even worn them with morning dress, and I think I got away with it.

Dear readers will already by aware, I think, that I favour "classic" designs over the modern. A final mention in this category must be the folding Persol sunglasses worn by Steve McQueen in the original version of The Thomas Crown Affair. Now, these are indeed iconic, but two words of caution. Firstly, while they are very convenient the hinge between the lenses can look a little odd at first when they are worn. More importantly, though, if you are going to 'reference' Steve McQueen in a sartorial way, you need either the looks or the balls to pull it off. This is not to say that anyone who wears Persols must be an action man, but do not cower, or apologise. Hold your head up high, and perhaps even swagger a little. The message must be, "Yes, Steve McQueen wore these. And what of it?"

Doubtless you will not all be devotees of Ray Bans. But think about the shapes and styles of the sunglasses I have mentioned. Doubtless other manufacturers produce similar products. Most importantly, just think about sunglasses as part of your outfit. You will have deduced from what is above that I have several pairs of sunglasses. You may think this is extravagant. But, really, is it? Good sunglasses can be had for less than a good pair of shoes. And three or four pairs will broaden your horizons so much. A bit of care and thought will have you looking the compleat gentleman.

(A final word to reader who wear spectacles. Prescription sunglasses will restrict you considerably. For this I am sorry, but I think you only really have two options. Sit this dance out, or, as I did, switch to contact lenses.)