Review: Skylon

Yesterday afternoon - and what a glorious afternoon it was - found the Sybarite at the Skylon bar in the Royal Festival Hall. It was not my first visit by any means, nor will it be my last; in addition it was a relatively fleeting stop. Nevertheless, it is worth flying the flag for this excellent establishment.

Skylon is named, of course, after the iconic structure of the 1951 Festival of Britain, the vertical 'needle which, so the joke of the time went, was like the British economy, in having no visible means of support. (Interestingly, by which I mean it interests me, the fate of the Skylon is unknown, with one theory having it thrown into the River Lea when the Festival site was dismantled.) But I digress.

Skylon is also a restaurant as well as a cocktail bar, but I have not eaten there, so cannot comment (though the bar snacks are excellent). But what makes the place such an attractive destination to me is the cocktail bar. The range is superb, and the staff give the impression that they know what they are doing. Though I have never needed to do so, I am quite sure that you could go off piste and they would not bat an eyelid. Prices are not cheap; most cocktails are £11.50 and other drinks are of a piece. But I have paid more for worse cocktails and much worse service.

As it was a flying visit, with only time for two drinks, I kept it simple and ordered a martini. The options are agreeably many: vodka or gin, dry or dirty, garnished with an olive, a twist of lemon, lime or orange, or a cocktail onion (which would strictly make it a Gibson, but never mind). I requested a very dry gin martini - it was Tanqueray - with a twist of orange, as I was feeling frivolous and summery. Reader, I would have married it. It was everything a good martini should be, powerful, crisp, clean, refreshing, and with a healthy gin kick. It was no meagre measure and the twist was artfully presented.

My companion opted for an Aviation: Tanqueray 10, Luxardo maraschino, fresh lemon juice, a dash of sugar and violet syrup, shaken and served in a martini glass. It resembled nothing so much as a White Lady, but I am told it was pleasantly cool and refreshing on such a hot day. (Note to self - make a White Lady later. Mmmmmmm.)

In addition to excellent cocktails and good service, there is, of course, the location. We were seated by the window, looking out across the South Bank and the Thames, and, I must add, with a touch of schadenfreude, the poor punters baking in the heat outside, while we were coolly air-conditioned. The staff had pulled the blinds down a little far for my tastes, but then, with all that glass, the place could easily become a hothouse.

So, dear readers. Go to Skylon. If you fancy yourself anything of a cocktail fan, you must go. Even if cocktails aren't your thing (in which case you must be very odd), it is an excellent bar with attentive staff, a fine range of drinks and a lovely atmosphere. It's not cheap, but it should be, at least, an occasional treat.